Climbing Iliniza Norte was a very important part of our acclimatization before our climb to the Cotopaxi volcano. The Iliniza Norte is one of the most popular treks in Ecuador since there is no glacier at the top and it can be completed without using ropes or technical gear.
The Ecological Reserve of the Ilinizas is located immediately in front of the Cotopaxi volcano, so there are exceptional views of the great colossus. It is a really beautiful place, particularly at dawn, when the sun rises and you begin to see all the volcanoes over the cloudy horizon.
Trail details
Total distance: 14 km
Time: 2 days
Difficulty: Moderate – Difficult
Maximum Elevation: 5,126 meters
Map
The Iliniza Norte is considered one of the best trekking routes in Ecuador!
To access the Ecological Reserve of the Ilinizas, you must register at the office. Most of the tourists visiting the park are accompanied by a guide, although it’s not mandatory to have one. The problem is that the rangers probably won’t give you access if you are not bringing a guide because a few years ago there was a serious accident in which some people died. The rangers have become very strict since then.
I want to emphasize that this accident did not happen on the mountain we climbed, but in the Iliniza Sur, which is located in the same reserve but is much more technical.
There are two options for accessing the park without a guide:
The first one is to bring your mountain federation card, even if it’s issued in your home country. In theory, this should be enough to prove that you are an experienced hiker. Unfortunately, I hadn’t renewed my license in a long time.
The second option (the one we used, since we tend to be scoundrels), is telling the rangers that you just want to sleep in the shelter as part of your acclimatization for the Cotopaxi volcano and promising them that you won’t climb. In our case, once at the shelter, of course we climbed to the summit. We felt that we had enough experience to do it this way, but I’m not encouraging inexperienced people to climb on their own, as a couple of climbing steps on this route can be dangerous.
From “Campo de la Virgen” – the beginning of the route – to the shelter, you’ll walk about 3 hours along a dirt road (and, in our case, facing strong winds and thick fog).
Once at the shelter, we met a very nice Ecuadorian couple with whom we decided to climb the next day.
We woke up pretty early, about 5:00 am, and were ready for the climb. The weather was perfect; the sky was very clear above us, but a low mist was covering the mountainside, giving it a mysterious look.
The climb was very beautiful and exciting. First, you take a dirt path where the mountains seem to have different colors. Later you start climbing over the rocks, getting closer to the summit, all the time with stunning views of the Cotopaxi volcano and the Iliniza Sur. There was barely any snow on the summit, so we didn’t have to use crampons or ice axes.
Once at the top, we felt great emotion and took a few minutes to relax and enjoy the beautiful views. We were ready for our next challenge: the climb to the great Cotopaxi, nearly 6,000 meters high.
Budget for hiking Iliniza Norte
Including food, entrance fees and transportation we spent around $ 30 per person for the two days it took to complete the climb.
ACCOMMODATION
The “Nuevos Horizontes” shelter, at 4,700 meters, is where you’ll spend the night before the climb. There you’ll find a kitchen, running water and a bathroom.
The shelter has 25 beds, and is open year round. The price is $10 US per person. Don’t forget to bring your own sleeping bag.
Hostel in Quito: Discovery Quito. Nice, economic and well located.
TRANSPORT. HOW TO GET TO THE ILINIZAS
To get to the Ilinizas by public transport:
First, take a bus from Quito to Machachi (1 hour). Then, in Machachi you will change busses and take the one going to El Chaupi (1 hour).
From El Chaupi you can take a Jeep to “Campo de la Virgen” where the trekking begins. The price is about $10 one way or $20 round trip. If you don’t see any Jeeps, just ask anyone in town and they will get you something in a few minutes.
FOOD
I recommend that you buy all your food in Quito, where you’ll find more options. There are a few stores in El Chaupi in case you need something.
WEATHER
The two best seasons for climbing Iliniza Norte are from June to September and from November to February.
TIPS FOR CLIMBING ILINIZA
GUIDES
If you don’t have much experience on the mountain, I recommend that you hire a guide. Even though it’s a simple climb, there are a few technical steps.
ACCLIMATIZATION
This is a considerably high trek. I recommend that you climb the Rucu Pichincha beforehand so that your body gradually acclimatizes. Some info about Altitude Sickness.
Next Read: The best things to do in Ecuador
Did you like Hiking Iliniza Norte? Please, contact me!
Hi, I’m Miguel; Adventure traveler, scuba diver and hiking lover. I have been traveling the world for the last 12 years and I hope my experiences, photos and hiking routes inspire you to travel the world too.
sabina says
Oh, I see, that you are a diver too 🙂 I am planning to dive on Galapagos. I wanted to organize a dive from Puerto Ayora, thinking about one day trip (max. two dives). Do you suggest any good agency and spot that is not so far from Santa Cruz and therefore a bit cheaper (Floreana, North Seymour, Mosquera)? I was checking Scuba Iguana in Puerto Ayora..Of course, with diverse aquatic life 🙂 (sea lions, sting rays, sharks, turtles..)
Travelsauro says
Hi Sabina,
Unfortunately, I’ve never been to Galapagos. I’m sorry I can’t help you out on this one.
Miguel.
Mariusz says
Did you have crampons with yourself (as a precaution)? As for these dangerous technical steps – how would you measure them in the scale of 1 to 10? I am not that experienced hiker, but consider myself very sane and responsible – I am not taking too much risk 😉
Travelsauro says
Hi Mariusz, I didn’t bring any crampons.. and I didn’t need them for this hike… It’s not really that hard, there are a few steps a but dangerous as you have to climb next to a cliff.. but not really difficult. If you are not experienced, I’d go with a guide, just in case. Safe travels, Miguel.
Paul says
Hi, i have a question about the water. Fldo you need to bring with you to the shelter or you can buy there?
Travelsauro says
I’m not 100% sure right now, but I think you can get it there, from the glacier.
Mirna Davis says
Hi Miguel,
I admire how well you managed to travel in all the countries you been.
I’m planning visiting either Ecuador or Colombia. I want to do some trekking in either country. I saw you mentioning you were in colombia but no reference in your itineraires of Colombia.
I of course wants to hire a guide or go with a company as I travel alone. I do travel in a budget so if you have some recommendation it will be great.
One thing I noticed is that you said you must have a mountain federation card? I do not have one and not sure if I can get one.
I’m not as active as 4 years ago but I still hike and consider myself okay to do long treks.
Thanks in advance
Mirna Davis
Travelsauro says
Hi Mirna, how are you? You need a mountain federation card only if you want to go by yourself. If you hire a guide, then you won’t need it. Try to get a guide and enjoy that beautiful mountain. Safe travels.